The “Edible Identity” in Michelle Zauner’s Crying in H Mart: A Memoir

Main Article Content

Foong Soon Seng
Gheeta Chandran
Raphael Thoo Yi Xian

Abstract

Michelle Zauner’s Crying in H Mart is an evocative memoir of an Asian- American woman who struggled to accept her mixed heritage. A major turning point in her life was having to deal with grief over the loss of a loved one through the help of food. While food has frequently been studied in relation to grief and identity, the ways in which these intersect is less common and warrants further exploration. Given the multiplicity of identities embodied by the protagonist and their often-conflicting nature, the researchers employed Herman’s dialogical self theory (DST) as a framework to better understand her journey towards self-discovery and acceptance. With each identity being given a voice of their own, the constant negotiation among them became apparent and the role played by food in the process was also highlighted. Findings indicate that food as a primary marker for Michelle to reclaim her own heritage and identity was emphasised repeatedly in the memoir. It reinforces the notion that food is affective in nature because it is capable of evoking emotions and memories that could (re)shape one’s identity. While Michelle initially rejected her Korean (Asian) heritage, she begins to reclaim and embrace it while reconnecting with her ailing mother through their shared affection for Korean food. It is through her love of Korean food that Michelle is able to gradually embrace one of the major changes in her life and subsequently overcome the identity crisis that has been troubling her.

Article Details

How to Cite
The “Edible Identity” in Michelle Zauner’s Crying in H Mart: A Memoir. (2023). KEMANUSIAAN The Asian Journal of Humanities, 30(Supp. 1), 103–122. https://doi.org/10.21315/kajh2023.30.s1.7
Section
Articles

References

Ando, M., Yukihiro, S., Yasufumi, S. and Kumi, I. 2013. Changes experienced by and the future values of bereaved family members determined using narratives from bereavement life review therapy. Palliative and Supportive Care 13(1): 59–65. https://doi.org/10.1017/s1478951513000990

Bardhi, F., Östberg, J. and Bengtsson, A.A. 2010. Negotiating cultural boundaries: Food, travel and consumer identities. Consumption Markets and Culture 13(2): 133–157. https://doi.org/10.1080/10253860903562148

Batory, A., Bak, W., Oles, P.K. and Puchalska-Wasyl, M. 2010. The dialogical self: Research and applications. Psychology of Language and Communication 14(1): 45–59. https://doi.org/10.2478/v10057-010-0003-8

Bhatia, S. 2002. Acculturation, dialogical voices and the construction of the diasporic self. Theory and Psychology 12(1): 55–77. https://doi.org/10.1177/1469540504046523

Brien, D.L. 2013. Concern and sympathy in a pyrex bowl: Cookbooks and funeral foods. M/C Journal 16(3). https://doi.org/10.5204/mcj.655

Chuck, C., Fernandes, S.A. and Hyers, L.L. 2016. Awakening to the politics of food: Politicized diet as social identity. Appetite 107: 425–436. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.appet.2016.08.106

Chung, H.K., Yang, H.J., Shin, D. and Chung, K.R. 2016. Aesthetics of Korean foods: The symbol of Korean culture. Journal of Ethnic Foods 3(3): 178–188. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2016.09.001

Den Elzen, K. 2021. Therapeutic writing through the lens of the grief memoir and dialogical self theory. Journal of Constructivist Psychology 34(2): 218–230. https://doi.org/10.1080/10720537.2020.1717136

Di Giovine, M.A. and Brulotte, R. L. 2014. Introduction: Food and foodways as cultural heritage. In Edible identities: Food as cultural heritage, eds. R.L. Brulotte and

M.A. Di Giovine, 1–27. Surrey, England: Ashgate Publishing Company. https://doi.org/10.1177/1469540504046523

Eagleton, T. 1998. Edible Écriture. In Consuming passions: Food in the age of anxiety, eds. S. Griffiths and J. Wallace, 203–208. New York: Manchester University Press.

Furnes, B. and Dysvik, E. 2010. Dealing with grief related to loss by death and chronic pain: An integrated theoretical framework. Part 1. Patient Preference and Adherence 4:135–140. https://doi.org/10.2147/ppa.s10580

Gabaccia, D.R. 1998. We are what we eat: Ethnic food and the making of Americans. Cambridge: Harvard University Press.

Hagi-Mohamed, F. 2022. Memoir and writing and intergenerational trauma: The reparative power of personal narrative. Retrieved from https://escholarship.org/uc/item/5wp8b3jj (accessed on 14 April 2023).

Hermans, H.J.M. 2001. The construction of a personal position repertoire: Method and practice. Culture and Psychology 7(3): 323–366. https://doi.org/10.1177/1354067x0173005

_____. 1996. Voicing the self: From information processing to dialogical interchange. Psychological Bulletin 119(1): 31–50. https://doi.org/10.1037/0033-2909.119.1.31

Hermans, H.J.M. and Gieser, T. 2012. Introductory chapter: History, main tenets and core concepts of dialogical self theory. In Handbook of dialogical self theory, eds. H.J.M.

Hermans and T. Gieser, 1–22. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. https://doi.org/10.1177/1469540504046523

Hermans, H.J.M. and Hermans-Konopka, A. 2010. Dialogical self theory: Positioning and counter-positioning in a globalizing society. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. https://doi.org/10.1177/1469540504046523

Høeg, B.L., Appel, C.W., Heymann-Horan, A.B.V., Frederiksen, K., Johansen, C., Bøge, P., Dencker, A., Dyregrov, A., Mathiesen, B.B. and Bidstrup, P.E. 2016. Maladaptive coping in adults who have experienced early parental loss and grief counseling. Journal of Health Psychology 22(14): 1851–1861. https://doi.org/10.1177/1359105316638550

Hooks, B. 1998. Writing autobiography. In Women, autobiography, theory. A reader, eds. S. Smith and J. Watson, 429–432. Madison/London: University of Wisconsin Press.

Holtzman, J.D. 2006. Food and memory. The Annual Review of Anthropology 35: 361–378. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev.anthro.35.081705.123220

Ichijo, A. and Ranta, R. 2016. Food, national identity and nationalism: From every day to global politics. Basingstoke, UK: Palgrave Macmillan. https://doi.org/10.1177/1469540504046523

Johnson, C.M., Sharkey, J.R., McIntosh, A.W. and Dean, W.R. 2010. I’m the momma: Using photo-elicitation to understand matrilineal influence on family food choice. BMC Women’s Health 10(21). https://doi.org/10.1186/1472-6874-10-21

Ligorio, M.B. 2010. Dialogical relationship between identity and learning. Culture and Psychology 16(1): 93–107. https://doi.org/10.1177/1354067x09353206

Lim, S.G.L. 2001. Tongue and roots: Language in exile. In Malaysian literature in English: A critical reader, eds. M.A. Quayum and P.C. Wicks, 298–303. Selangor, Malaysia: Pearson Education Malaysia.

Mogot, G.K. 2018. Identifying as “Indo”: Descriptions of food in Marguerite Schenkhuizen’s “Memoirs of an Indo woman” (1993) and Anne-gine Goemans’ “Honolulu King” (2015). Junctions: Graduate Journal of the Humanities 3(1): 59–71. https://doi.org/10.33391/jgjh.6

Moisio, R., Arnould, E.J. and Price, L.L. 2004. Between mothers and markets: Constructing family identity through homemade food. Journal of Consumer Culture 4(3): 361–384. https://doi.org/10.1177/1469540504046523

Murdock, M. 2004. Unreliable truth: On memoir and memory. New York: Seal Press.

Nicholson, M. 1987. Food and power: Homer, Carroll, Atwood and others. Mosaic: An Interdisciplinary Critical Journal 20(3): 37–55. https://www.jstor.org/stable/24778824

Oliveira, A.J., Rostila, M., Saarela, J. and Lopes, C.S. 2014. The influence of bereavement on body mass index: Results from a national Swedish survey. PLoS ONE 9(4):e95201. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0095201

Ory, P. 1997. Gastronomy. In Realms of memory: The construction of the French past traditions, eds. P. Nora and L.D. Kritzman, Vol. 2, 443–467. New York: ColumbiaUniversity Press.

Ozer, S., Bertelsen, P., Singla, R. and Schwartz, S.J. 2017. Grab your culture and walk with the global. Journal of Cross-Cultural Psychology 48(3): 294–318. https://doi.org/10.1177/0022022116687394

Piatti-Farnell, L. and Brien, D.L. 2018. The Routledge companion to literature and food. New York: Routledge. https://doi.org/10.4324/9781351216029

Shahani, G.J. 2018. Food and literature. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.

Sprague, J. 2022. Ghost in the kitchen: Multiracial Korean Americans (re)defining cultural authenticity. Genealogy 6(2): 35. https://doi.org/10.3390/genealogy6020035

Stemplewska-Zakowicz, K., Zalewski, B., Suszek, H. and Kobylinska, D. 2012. Cognitive architecture of the dialogical self: An experimental approach. In Handbook of dialogical self theory, eds. H.J.M. Hermans and T. Gieser, 264–283. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9781139030434.019

Strand, M. 2022. Food and trauma: Anthropologies of memory and postmemory. Culture, Medicine and Psychiatry 47: 466–494. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11013-022-09785-2

Suchacka, W. 2020. “Alimentary assemblages” at intersections: Food, (queer) bodies and intersectionality in Marusya Bociurkiw’s “Comfort food for breakups: The memoir of a hungry girl” (2007). Studia Anglica Posnaniensia 55(s2): 353–373. https://doi.org/10.2478/stap-2020-0018

Surya, R. and Lee, A.G.Y. 2022. Exploring the philosophical values of kimchi and kimjang culture. Journal of Ethnic Foods 9(20). https://doi.org/10.1186/s42779-022-00136-5

Sutton, D.E. 2001. Remembrance of repasts: An anthropology of food and memory. New York: Berg Publishing. https://doi.org/10.5040/9781350044883

Tam, K.P. 2015. Understanding intergenerational cultural transmission through the role of perceived norms. Journal of Cross-Cultural Psychology 46(10): 1260–1266. https://doi.org/10.1177/00220221156000

Tsujimura, N. 2018. Recipe names as a gateway to interpersonal communication. Names: A Journal of Onomastics 66(4): 233–245. https://doi.org/10.1080/00277738.2018.1452941

Vasvári, L.O. 2018. Identity and intergenerational remembrance through traumatic culinary nostalgia: Three generations of Hungarians of Jewish origin. Hungarian Cultural Studies: e-Journal of the American Hungarian Educators Association 11: 57–77. https://doi.org/10.5195/ahea.2018.322

Watson, J.L. and Caldwell, M.L. 2005. The cultural politics of food and eating: A reader. Malden, MA: Blackwell Publishing.

Waxman, B.F. 2008. Food memoirs: What they are, why they are popular and why they belong in the literature classroom. College English 70(4): 363–383.

Young, R.O. 2005. Authenticity and representation: Cuisines and identities in Korean-American diaspora. Postcolonial Studies 8(1): 109–125. https://doi.org/10.1080/13688790500134380

Zauner, M. 2021. Crying in H mart. London: Picador.